Laura Robertson Discovers Ottawa's Culinary Soul in Byward Market
When my husband and I decided to travel to Ottawa for a surprise party celebrating dear friends, I knew I wanted to experience the city beyond the usual sightseeing highlights. We drove to Toronto, parked at Spot Hub, and boarded Via Rail for the journey. It was the kind of trip that reminded me why I love being a travel advisor: the chance to test my research skills and come back with real, honest insights.
We stayed in the Byward Market at the Courtyard, using points for one night and extending our stay to three. What surprised me most was how much and how little the Market area has changed since my last visit. The neighborhood has a gritty edge to it, no matter where you stay, but that character comes with an incredible payoff: the restaurant and bar scene is absolutely fabulous.
A Night at Apothecary Lounge
The moment I keep thinking about, the one I tell everyone, was our dinner for two at Apothecary Lounge the night after the party. We ordered beef tenderloin, and it was the kind of meal that makes you slow down and savor every bite. The atmosphere, the service, the food. Everything came together perfectly. It was a reminder that Ottawa's dining scene deserves more attention than it often gets.
A Sweet Detour That Rewrote My Plans
I had been looking forward to visiting Lois and Frima's for ice cream, a spot I remembered fondly from past trips. When we arrived, I was disappointed to find it transformed into a dumpy shack in a smelly area. Not quite the nostalgic experience I was expecting. But here's where Ottawa's hospitality shone through. We were at a rooftop restaurant called YOW, and I asked the staff and fellow patrons where we should go for ice cream instead. They pointed us to a gelato place right across the street. The salted caramel gelato was fabulous, so good that we went back the next day for a vanilla iced latte, which was equally delicious. The staff throughout our trip were genuinely engaged and eager to help, and that willingness to share local knowledge made all the difference.
Lessons Learned on the Rails
Traveling via Via Rail taught me a few things most travelers would never figure out on their own. The Via Rail app is incredibly useful for planning your trip. When selecting your seat, always check what direction the train will be traveling (it's right there in the app). If you're like me and prefer facing forward, this little detail can make your journey much more comfortable, though Via doesn't guarantee your seat orientation.
I'm convinced that our trip was as enjoyable as it was because I researched accommodations, restaurants, bars, Toronto parking, and Via Rail options ahead of time. Without that preparation, we would have missed out on so much. And there's one thing I'll always mention to clients now: the homelessness problem in Ottawa is significant, and understanding that reality is part of understanding the city.
Who Would Love This Trip
This trip is perfect for anyone interested in experiencing Ottawa beyond the monuments and museums. If you want to dive into a vibrant food and drink scene, explore a neighborhood with real character, and don't mind a little grit, you'll love the Byward Market. But if you're expecting no delays on Via Rail or five star accommodations, this might not be your style. Ottawa rewards the curious traveler who comes prepared and stays flexible.
Having experienced this myself, I now know exactly how to set expectations and which restaurants to recommend. I can't wait to help clients discover the same unexpected pleasures I found, from that incredible beef tenderloin dinner to the perfect scoop of salted caramel gelato.